AW-118 Photo Etch Mesh 01: Uses on Model Kits
By Newtype: Gundam Model Kits / Gunpla / Paint / Tools | Published: 2026-10-15
Category: How-to Guides
Learn where photo etch mesh works on scale model kits, how to cut and attach AW-118 Photo Etch Mesh 01, and the mistakes that lift or bury the detail.
Quick answer
AW-118 Photo Etch Mesh 01 is a 1/144 and 1/100 detail part, so use it where a kit has open vents, grilles, or intake frames that look flat in plastic. Cut it slightly oversize, shape it against the opening, and glue only the border so the mesh stays visible. It is not a load-bearing part, so never use it to replace a structural panel.
Where mesh actually improves a kit
The strongest use is a vent or grille that already has a recessed frame. Photo etch mesh reads as depth because light passes through the openings, while a solid plastic vent reads as a flat panel. Check the kit for molded louvers, intake slots, thruster housings, and under-armor gaps before you cut anything. If the opening is shallow, the mesh will sit nearly flush and the effect is weak.
Scale matters. AW-118 is listed for 1/144 and 1/100, so it suits high grade and master grade-sized openings. On a 1/144 kit, keep the mesh patch small and place it in one or two focal areas rather than covering every vent. On 1/100, you can use larger continuous sections because the openings are wider and the weave stays readable.
Prepare the opening before the mesh
Clean the recess with a hobby knife and a fine sanding stick so the frame edge is square. Paint the inside of the vent a dark color such as black or dark gray; this makes the mesh read as a real opening instead of a bright plate. Test-fit the bare mesh over the opening and mark the frame edge with tape or a pencil line.
Do not glue the mesh to a painted surface that has not cured. Fresh paint can soften under adhesive and pull away with the part. If you are adding photo etch to gunpla after a topcoat, let the coat cure fully first, then handle the part with tweezers.
Cutting and shaping the mesh
Photo etch is thin metal, so cut it on a hard, flat surface with a sharp hobby knife or photo etch scissors. Cut a patch about half a millimeter larger than the opening on each side. That extra border gives you a gluing surface and prevents the mesh from dropping through the frame.
If the vent is curved, gently roll the mesh over a paint bottle or dowel to give it a slight curve. Do not force a sharp bend; photo etch creases and the crease will catch light. For a flat vent, leave the mesh flat and let the frame do the shaping.
Gluing without filling the holes
Use a tiny amount of thin cyanoacrylate applied with a needle or a fine applicator. Place the mesh in the opening with tweezers, align one edge, then touch glue to the border only. Capillary action will pull the glue under the edge without flooding the center.
A common mistake is using thick glue or too much accelerator. Both can wick into the weave and block the holes, which turns the mesh into a solid plate. If glue does fill the mesh, remove it immediately with a clean knife tip before it sets.
Finishing and checking the result
After the glue cures, trim any overhanging mesh with a sharp blade held flat against the frame. Prime and paint the mesh along with the surrounding part, or leave it bare metal if you want a raw mechanical contrast. A light dark wash in the recess will deepen the openings without clogging them.
Check the part under a desk lamp at an angle. If the mesh looks like a flat sticker, the recess is too shallow or the mesh is sitting proud of the frame. If the holes are bridged with paint or glue, the detail is lost and you should replace the patch.
Steps for installing AW-118 mesh
- Choose a recessed vent or grille: Pick an opening with a molded frame and enough depth to show the mesh. Avoid shallow panel lines and load-bearing joints. Checkpoint: if the opening is flat, mesh will look like a sticker.
- Darken the recess and test-fit: Paint the inside of the vent black or dark gray, let it cure, then hold the bare mesh over the opening to judge size and alignment. Checkpoint: mark the frame edge before cutting so the patch stays centered.
- Cut the mesh slightly oversize: Cut a patch about half a millimeter larger on each side using a sharp blade or photo etch scissors on a hard surface. Mistake to avoid: cutting exactly to size leaves no border to glue.
- Shape curved vents gently: Roll the mesh over a dowel or paint bottle for a slight curve. Keep flat vents flat and let the frame align them. Mistake to avoid: forcing a sharp crease that catches light.
- Glue only the border: Apply thin cyanoacrylate with a needle to the edge of the mesh. Let capillary action pull it under the border without flooding the center. Checkpoint: if glue bridges the holes, remove it before it sets.
- Trim, paint, and inspect: After curing, trim overhang flat against the frame, then prime and paint with the surrounding part or leave bare metal. Final check: view the part at an angle under a lamp; the openings should read as depth, not a flat plate.
Product facts
- AW-118 Photo Etch Mesh 01: AW-118 Photo Etch Mesh 01 is listed for 1/144 and 1/100 and is supplied without instructions, with the details left for the builder to decide. You choose the placement and size, so plan the vent or grille before cutting and keep spare mesh for a second attempt.
- Vehicle Model 014 Blockade Runner: Vehicle Model 014 Blockade Runner is a plastic Bandai kit based on Star Wars, supplied as pieces to build the Blockade Runner. Its hull has flat panel surfaces where small mesh patches can suggest vents or grilles, but check the actual recess depth before committing.
- Frame Arms Type 48 Model 2 Kagatsuchi-Otsu Fencer RE:2: Frame Arms Type 48 Model 2 Kagatsuchi-Otsu Fencer RE:2 includes newly designed large-sized weapons and a changed main body and extra armor color scheme. Large weapon housings and armor panels give you room for mesh inserts, but the color scheme means you should test paint adhesion on the mesh border first.
